mralgae

Redfield Ratio

2009-02-20T01:45:00.003Z

Redfield Ratio To Help Combat Algae:

Redfield ratio or Redfield stoichiometry is the molecular ratio of carbon, nitrogen and phosphorus in phytoplankton. The stoichiometric ratio is C:N:P = 106:16:1. The term is named after the American oceanographer Alfred C. Redfield, who first described the ratio in an article in 1934 (Redfield 1934).Redfield described the remarkable congruence between the chemistry of the deep ocean and the chemistry of living things in the surface ocean. Both have N:P ratios of about 16 (atoms to atoms). When nutrients are not limiting, the molar element ratio C:N:P in most phytoplankton is 106:16:1. Redfield thought it wasn't purely coincidental that the vast oceans would have a chemistry perfectly suited to the requirements of living organisms. He considered how the cycles of not just N and P but also C and O could interact to result in this match. (From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)Having established this ratio back in 1934, several articles of authority on nutrient ratios appeared (eg: Tilman et al., 1982; Howarth et al., 1988a; Leppänen et al., 1988), but it would take 60 years before A.P. Levich of Moscow State University proposed an interpretation which allowed dominance control of planktonic communities of blue-green or green microorganisms by nutrient manipulation.Levich had found an effective way to fight algae.

The role of nitrogen-phosphorus ratio in selecting for dominance of phytoplankton by cyanobacteria or green algae and its application to reservoir management.
(by: A. P. Levich; Laboratory of General Ecology, Department of Zoology of Vertebrates and General Ecology, Biological Faculty, Moscow State University, 119899 Vorobyovy Gory, Moscow, Russia December 1994.)

ABSTRACT:
The undesirable consequences of phosphorus enrichment in reservoirs are primarily connected with the emerging abundance of cyanobacteria which are not utilized by the consumers and form, as a rule, a trophic block in the majority of nutrition chains. Blooming of Chlorococcales does not produce these negative effects since they are actively consumed by grazers. The NT ratio turns out to be the factor which regulates the dominance of planktonic communities by blue-green or green microorganisms. Decrease of the N:P ratio, through the addition of phosphorus compounds, leads to cyanobacterial blooming.In order to replace blue-green dominance of eutrophic reservoirs by dominant greens, it is suggested that the addition of nitrogen, thus varying the N:P ratio (nutrient manipulation) to apply, is superior to the traditional phosphorus load decrease. Utilization of the redundant green algal biomass may occur in a natural way or be conducted with the aid of biomanipulation, i.e., by introduction of planktivorous fish into the reservoir.
Five years later Levich teamed with Bulgakov publishing a paper providing numerical limits to nutrient manipulation in the control of algae.

The nitrogen : Phosphorus ratio as a factor regulating phytoplankton community structure : Nutrient ratios
(by: BULGAKOV N. G. and LEVICH A. P. ; Moscow State University 1999.)

ABSTRACT:
Shifts in phytoplankton species composition following changes in N: P ratio have been observed in artificial laboratory microcosms and natural phytoplankton communities in vitro and in situ. The experiments reported and reviewed here have shown that high N: P weight ratios (20-50: 1) can favor the development of Chlorococcales, while a reduction of the N: P ratio to values of 5 to 10 frequently leads to a community dominated by Cyanophyta. Model calculations predict that the relative abundance of different phytoplankton species depends only on the relative amounts of N and P in the environment, so that the optimal N: P ratio for a given species is equal to the ratio of its minimum cell requirements for these elements. An empirical test of this hypothesis showed that for several species of Chlorococcales and Cyanophyta the ratios of their cellular requirements for N and P determined experimentally were close to their optimal (for growth) environmental concentration ratios. For instance, an experimental increase in the N: P ratio from a value of 4:1 to 25-50: 1 by mass in the water of fish-breeding ponds led to an increased abundance of Chlorococcales. The species shift was due mainly to Scenedesmus quadricauda, which has a high optimal N: P ratio for growth.
In 2004, Ilmar Tõnno provides additional information on the nitrogen cycle involving Cyanobacterial Dominance. This article is of importance because of its emphasis on “how” and “why” of these processes.

The Impact Of Nitrogen And Phosphorus Concentration And N/P Ratio On Cyanobacterial Dominance And N2 Fixation In Some Estonian Lakes
(by:ILMAR TÕNNO; Institute of Zoology and Hydrobiology, University of Tartu, Estonia. 2004)
ABSTRACT:
Nitrogen (N) is one of the main building blocks for the production of organic matter and it is required in great quantities (Stolp, 1996; Williams et al., 2002). Most of the nitrogen on Earth is present in molecular form (N2) being biologically unavailable except for organisms containing the enzyme nitrogenase.N2-fixation (N2fix) by micro-organisms is the only process in nature that counteracts the losses of nitrogen from the environment by denitrification (Fig. 1). Cyanobacteria appear responsible for most of planktonic N2fix in aquatic ecosystems, this ability gives a significant competitive advantage to these organisms during the periods of nitrogen limitation (Tilman et al., 1982; Howarth et al., 1988a; Leppänen et al., 1988). Many hypotheses have been presented to explain cyanobacterial dominance and blooms in lakes. One of the most common is resource ratio competition theory, predicting that cyanobacteria tend to dominate in lakes where the ratio of nitrogen and phosphorus (P) is low, mainly because of the ability of some of these species to use molecular nitrogen (Elser 1999). This theory has been proved both empirically and experimentally. Cyanobacteria, both fixing and not fixing N2, tend to dominate if the ratio of total nitrogen (TN) and total phosphorus (TP) in the water column is below ca. 5–10 by mass (Schindler 1977, Seip 1994, Michard et al., 1996, Bulgakov & Levich 1999), although some authors regard the critical TN/TP ratio to be much higher, even as much as 29 by Smith (1983). According to many authors (Smith et al., 1987, Willén 1992, Lathrop et al., 1998, Downing et al., 2001) cyanobacterial dominance and blooms couple more strongly to the variations in P and N concentrations, rather than changes in N/P ratio. Other factors such as water temperature, pH, light intensity and total carbon dioxide concentration are also important. Generally N2-fixing cyanobacteria are better nitrogen competitors, but poorer phosphorus competitors, than other groups of algae. In shallow lakes, however, cyanobacteria appear to be more efficient than other phytoplankton species in converting P into their biomass (Smith, 1983; Nixdorf & Deneke, 1997). Water in shallow lakes is permanently mixed up and therefore enabling more or less homogenous nutrient spreading in the water column. Unlike from shallow lakes, in stratified waterbodies phytoplankton (including cyanobacteria) takes up epilimnetic nutrients and transports them to the hypolimnion via sedimentation. Nutrients may accumulate in the hypolimnion during stratification period while nutrients deficiency may occur in the epilimnion if resupply from the inflows is limited (Scheffer, 1998). In earlier papers, however, it has not been studied whether cyanobacterial N2-fixation starts in lakes instantly after the set-up of favourableconditions or after some lag period.

Summary:

When nutrients are not limiting, the molar element ratio C:N:P in most phytoplankton is 106:16:1 (Redfield 1934)
The NT ratio turns out to be the factor which regulates the dominance of planktonic communities by blue-green or green microorganisms. Decrease of the N:P ratio, through the addition of phosphorus compounds, leads to cyanobacterial blooming. (Levich 1994)
It is suggested that the addition of nitrogen, thus varying the N:P ratio (nutrient manipulation) to apply, is superior to the traditional phosphorus load decrease. (Levich 1994)
Experiments reported and reviewed here have shown that high N: P weight ratios (20-50: 1) can favor the development of Chlorococcales, while a reduction of the N: P ratio to values of 5 to 10 frequently leads to a community dominated by Cyanophyta. (BULGAKOV N. G. and LEVICH A. P. 1999)
Cyanobacteria, both fixing and not fixing N2, tend to dominate if the ratio of total nitrogen (TN) and total phosphorus (TP) in the water column is below ca. 5–10 by mass. (Ilmar Tõnno. 2004)
According to many authors (Smith et al., 1987, Willén 1992, Lathrop et al., 1998, Downing et al., 2001) cyanobacterial dominance and blooms couple more strongly to the variations in P and N concentrations, rather than changes in N/P ratio. (Ilmar Tõnno. 2004)
Other factors such as water temperature, pH, light intensity and total carbon dioxide concentration are also important. (Ilmar Tõnno. 2004)

Implications for aquaria – or how to avoid the onset of an algae bloom.

The maintenance of the Redfield Ratio in an aquarium is a means of avoiding the onset of algae blooms. However

“Other factors such as water temperature, pH, light intensity and total
carbon dioxide concentration are also important. (Ilmar Tõnno. 2004)”.

This ratio should be somewhere between 10 and 22 atoms to atoms. The statistical optimum is 16.This means we need to test for NO3 and PO4 regularly. Unfortunately these tests give you answers in ppm (mg/L), which leaves the question: What is the relation between atoms and ppm?To find the atom to atom ratio you have to divide the molar weights into each other.Molar weight NO3: [NO3 ppm]/62Molar weight PO4: [PO4 ppm]/95Redfield Ratio: ([NO3 ppm]/62)/([PO4 ppm]/95) or 1.53* [NO3 ppm]/[PO4 ppm], in other words: you divide your NO3-reading by your PO4-reading and then multiply the answer by 1.53.That last term is sometimes called the "Buddy Ratio" which equals ±RR/1.5. If the RR has to be between 10 - 22, then the BR should be between 6 - 14 to get the same ratios.It is easier to work with the BR.The whole idea is to check NO3 and PO4 - say - once a month. If the ratio is out of the safe zone you can do a number of things:

If the readings are high (NO3 > 10ppm or PO4 > 1ppm), do a water change. Then test again.
If the readings are low, then add phosphate or nitrate depending.
· phosphate (KH2PO4, 0.1% solution) per ppm, per gallon: 5.5mL
· nitrate (KNO3, 1% solution) per ppm, per gallon: 0.6mL

What to do when an algae bloom hits you.

Measuring the Redfield Ratio (or Buddy Ratio) is easy to do, although there is always a chance that it may not be the reason, refer: “Other factors such as water temperature, pH, light intensity and total carbon dioxide, etc . . .”.Even so, if - nevertheless - the RR is greater than 22 or less than 10 (BR > 14 or <6)>

SEE HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION

Redfield Ratio & Easy life To Help Combat Algae:
Above is an old method that seems to have been forgotten about for many years and is starting to come back slowly. Myself and woolfenrook (ADE) have been testing this out for the last few weeks or so with so far good results.

As most of you will know I have never been able to dose anything in my planted tanks with out getting an algae bloom of one sort or another. The basic concept of the Redfield Ratio is to balance N&P being in between 10 & 22.The optimum being 16:1.
I have on top of bringing my N&P into this band started dosing Easy life Profito and also easycarbo. At 3ml & 4mls per day respectively. (21mls & 28mls per week)
This is the only time I have been able to add any thing to my tank and so far no sign of any increased algae growth so I am at the moment more than happy to continue with this and to increase dosing if needed.

Plant Lighting Requirements

2008-03-17T07:38:00.019Z

Blogger Plant lighting requirements:

Aquatic Plants require different lighting needs depending on where they come from around the world. Some will need very low light while others need very high light to grow to their full potential. Below is listed some of the more popular plants you will likely come across. This is by no means a full listing and represents only some of the many plants available.

A= Attatched. B= background. M=midground. F=forground. FL=floating plant.
LOW LIGHT REQUIREMENTS:
Anubias barteri var: barteri. (A)
Anubias Nana. (A)
Anubias Petite. (A)
Bolbitis heudelotii (A)
Ceratophyllum demersum “foxtail” (FL/B)
Cladophora aegagropila (F)
Cryptocoyne wendtii "green" (A)
Echinodorus “ozolot” (B/M)
Echinodorus “ozolot green” (B/M)
Eleocharis parvula (F)
Hygrophila corymbosa “siamensis” (M/B)
Hygrophila polysperma (M/B)
Hygrophila polysperma “big leaf” (B)
Marsilea hirsute (F)
Microsorum “pteropus” (A/M)
Microsorum “narrow” (AM)
Microsorum “philippine”(A/M)
Microsorum “windelov” (A/F/M)
Monosolenium tenerum (A/F)
Vallisneria nana (B)

LOW TO MEDIUM LIGHT REQUIREMENTS:
Alternanthera reineckii (B)
Aponogeton Longiplumulosus (B)
Aponogeton Madagascariensis (Centre/B)
Bacopa Carolinian (M/B)
Bacopa australis (M)
Bolbitis heudelotii (A/B)
Cabomba caroliniana (FL/B)
Cardamine lyrata (B)
Crinum natans (Centre)
Cryptocoryne becketii (A/M)
Cryptocoryne balancsae (A/B)
Cryptocoryne wendtii “brown” (F/M)
Cryptocoryne wendtii “Mi Oya” (M)
Echinodorus “aquartica” (F)
Echinodorus Barthii (B)
Echinodorus bleheri (B)
Echinodorus “ozolot” (M/B)
Echinodorus palaefolius “latifolius” (M/B)
Echinodorus palaefolius “tropica”(F)
Echinodorus “red special” (M)
Echinodorus “rosé” (M/B)
Echinodorus tenellus (F)
Elodea (egeria) densa (M/B)
Eleocharis parvula (F)
Hemianthus callitrichoides “cuba” (F)
Hemianthus micranthemoides (F/M)
Hygrophila corymbosa “siamensis” (M/B)
Hygrophila polysperma(M/B)
Jancus repens (M/B)
Lilaeopsis macloviana (M?b)
Ludwigia repens (B)
Ludwigia repens “rubin” (B)
Pogostemon helferi (F)
Ricca fluitans (A/F/M/B)
Shinnersia rivularis “weiss-grùn” (M/B)

MEDIUM TO HIGH LIGH REQUIREMENTS:
Bacopa monnieri (B)
Didiplis diandra (F/M)
Hygrophila diffomis (B)
Limnophila aquatica (B)
Nesaea crassicaulis (M/B)
Nymphaea lotus (Centre/B)
Rotala rotundifolia (B)

VERY HIGH LIGHT REQUIREMENTS:
Ceratopteris thalictroides (M/B)
Glossostigma elatinoides (F)
Heteranthera zosterfolia (B)
Hydrocotyle sibthorpiodes (maritima) (F)
Hygrophila corymbosa “red” (B)
Hygrophila guianensis (M/B)
Hygrophila polysperma “rosanervig” (M/B)
Limnophila arommatica (M/B)
Ludwigia arcuata (B)
Lysimachia nummularia “aurea” (M)
Micranthemum umbrosum (F)
Pogostemon stellata (eusteralis) (M)
Rotala sp: green (B)
Rotala sp: “nanjenshan” (mayaca) (F/M)
Samolus valerandi (M)

Of course some of these placements can be moved to create a more pleasing effect. E.G. Rotala sp: “nanjenshan” (mayaca) can be placed at the rear by creating a mound and planting at the rear of the tank.

Algae Guide

2008-02-11T02:02:00.001Z

ALGAE GUIDE

So you have got the dreaded weed in your tank?
Let me start by saying DON’T PANIC. All is not lost.

I turned this disaster

Into this

Algae is the most problematic in all aquariums from the simplest of set ups to the most advanced, every tank either has or will experience algae at some stage of the tanks life, and apart from the fish and plants you have, it is the most natural of things in it. I personally don’t mind some algae in my tanks and have learnt how to control it as the pictures above show, others don’t like any form of algae and go to great lengths to make sure it stays away. Trying to control algae is not as bad as it sounds.
So what is algae? How does it get into the tank? And most of all how do we get rid of it?
Algae is probably the most natural of all things in your tank, weather it is a low light tank, high tech tank, or you have just a few fish in your tank, algae is always present in some way shape or form. Were ever there is water there is always algae.

Algae uses the main 3 things that plants use to grow, algae will be come a problem when the balance is not correct and uses them to its own advantage before the plants do, this could be one of the main 3 things, e.g.: light, nutrients, c02.

For this article algae is a photosynthetic organism that needs light, water and nutrients to prosper, elements which are readily available in any aquarium. Getting rid of it from your aquarium is not very difficult. Knowing that, controlling and algae should be your goal.

There are several different types of algae that can affect an aquarium; the main four you will probably come across are brown, green, black bush & blue green (not truly algae but bacteria)
Other forms of algae include: green spot, staghorn, green water, green bush, green dust, hair thread, cladophora, rhizoclonium(as in the top picture)

There are 4 main types of algae (but more do exist) that aquariums can have.

Brown algae
Green algae
Red/brush algae
Blue green algae (cyanobacteria)

Brown Algae (Diatoms)

This will probably be the first type of algae any one will encounter in the aquarium and could appear from early on and will normally disappear when the tank stabilises and becomes more mature.
Brown algae could be in the form of a fluff like or spot appearance on leaves or décor.
Unless you are aiming for a high tech planted set up, it is important to reduce nutrient levels if possible, not to feed excess and keep up with full tank maintenance. As this algae grows well in low light, reducing light levels doesn’t help and could out do the green algae, so adding more light could help to rid brown algae.
If brown algae appears in an established tank then all tank stats need to be checked and lighting tubes if older than 8/12 mths may need to be replaced as they lose their intensity. Some will even change the tubes every 6mths to maintain good lighting in their tanks.

Green Algae (hair, bushy, dust)

Is probably the most common of all algae you will come across in your aquarium and can take on many forms, from spots, hair, or bushy appearance.
Light green in color and can reach lengths of over 1 inch. If left on its own, it will cause problems.
It tends to grow in clumps that can easily be scraped off although it can return quickly.

Possible causes:
High light
Low c02
Low nitrate
Possible solutions:
Reduce amount of lighting
Increase nitrate levels
Increase c02

Black bush, Black Beard, BBA.

Can be found growing on leaf edges of slow growing plants, bog wood and around filters etc. Grows in clumps or patches of fine black tufts up to about 0.5cm long.

Possible causes:
Low or fluctuating CO2 levels.
Could also indicate a high kH problem.
Possible solutions:
Increase the levels of CO2, levels should ideally be 30ppm.
Improve water circulation around the plants
Good water flow is also important.
In low light tank reduced water changes for a time may help resolve the problem or overdosing excel to keep the c02 stable.

Blue Green Algae (cyanobacteria)

Not truly an algae but bacteria.
Covers everything in a blue/green slimy sheet. Easily peels off but grows back again very quickly. It has a foul smell. It is very commonly found in the substrate and especially along the front where gravel meets glass but also can be found at the back of the tank and on décor.
I have found from around most forums that it mostly affects tanks with bright coloured gravel; this is not always the case as it does also affect darker gravel.

Possible causes:
Very low nitrates or higher levels of other nutrients.
Dirty substrates and filters can also bring it on.
Poor water circulation
Possible solutions:
Check water stats
Improving water circulation can also help to reduce this algae.
If all else fails a black out could be the way to remove it.
As a last resort you could use “erythromycin” but this WIIL affect the bacteria in the filter so great care must be taken.

Green Spot Algae

Forms hard green circular spots on the glass and slow growing plant leaves.

Possible causes:
Low c02 and possible
Low p04 levels
To long a lighting period
Possible solutions:
Check CO2 levels.
Check p04 levels
Reduce lighting period
Can be scraped off the glass using a razor blade or a good magnetic glass scraper. Between 8 and 10 hours should be plenty of lighting time for the plants. If it is more then reducing it may help.

Stag horn Algae

Grows in strands like a stags antlers. Black to grey/green in colour and sometimes a reddish tint.

Possible causes:
Low CO2.
Overfeeding fish and excess mulm.
Dirty filter.
Also disturbing dirty substrates without doing water change afterwards.
Possible solutions:
Check CO2 levels. Reduce feeding,
Vacuum the substrate and remove mulm.
Overdosing Flourish Excel may help.

Green Water:

Possible causes:
High lighting
High ammonia (nh4)
High nutrient levels
Disturbance of dirty substrate
Mass over feeding
Direct light on the tank
Possible solutions:
Reduce lighting
Check ammonia levels
Check water stats
Check no over feeding
Check no outside light source is on the tank

Conclusion:
The above causes & solutions are not exhaustive and are only a guide to the possible cause & solution.
At the end of the day if your tank has any form of algae it will be down to the water nutrients balance weather it be a fish only tank or a planted tank. Algae can & is caused by one or more of the nutrients either being to high or to low wrong lighting or lack of c02, trying to find which one can be more difficult than removing the algae its self.

Algae Alert

ALGAE ALERT!!! ALGAE ALERT!!!

So you got the algae bug and you want to know why? What to do? And how to get rid of it? I will try and answer the above in one simple answer!

ALGAE CONTROL IS NUTRIENT CONTROL.

So now you think that all you have to do is add nutrients and fertilizers and all will be fine. Well it’s not quite that simple.What you have to do is get the right nutrients and or fertilizers, and the correct amount (balance) in the tank or you end up with what you don’t want. ALGAE all over your tank.
At the end of the day algae is a plant, and you have the conditions in your tank for growing plants so in stands to reason that algae is going to grow if the conditions are right just as much as any other plant in your tank.When people get algae in the tank they tend to panic and start throwing in all sorts of anti algae drops and anything else they think will kill it, just as I did when I first got my first bloom. Unfortunately it doesn’t work that way nor is it that easy.Plants and algae need 4 basic things to live and survive correctly. Light, nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.
Both plants and algae fight to the end to compete for the best of everything in the tank.You have enough light because you may, as I have done have just put in the extra tube, the fish are throwing out all sorts of nitrogen and probably phosphate as well in their waste and the only thing that is not in any large amounts is potassium, one of the most over looked additions. There is no evidence that I have found that potassium invites or encourages algae in any tank.But again if you do as I did and remove all the phosphates from the water then the plants will not flourish and will be weak and leave them then being unable to take up other vital nutrients that they need to survive, (without going into to much detail) plants need a good supply of all nutrients to be able to take onboard other nutrients. Which for example can lead to high nitrate levels if the plants don’t consume enough nitrAte, this is then left in the water.
Again with out going into great detail there is what is considered to be main elements that plants need to survive well, these are broken down into 2 groups:

MACROnutrients.

Hydrogen .
Oxygen .
Carbon .
Nitrogen .
Calcium .
Magnesium .
Phosphate .
Sulfur

MICROnutrients (trace).

Iron.
Manganese.
Chlorine.
Zinc.
Baron.
Nickel.
Copper.
Molybdenum

Some of these I have only read about, some I do know about and some that I have first hand experience of, but as with everything, we are learning all the time.Higher plants consume the nutrients faster and easier than the lower ground plants thus leaving very little for the algae to feed on.
That doesn’t mean though you will not get algae, you will because it came in when you started putting plants in the tank and they were not quick enough to get to the nutrients before the algae did.The fewer the plants you have the more likely algae will appear as the plants don’t use up all the nutrients so leaving more for the algae to amass itself.IMO it would probably be easier to rid algae in a fish only tank, for as I was going to attempt a black out period to rid the algae I decided against it, as for the plants need light to thrive, so I still don’t know if a black out of a planted tank works or not.
I must admit I have probably learnt more about algae in my time of fish keeping than I have about fish keeping its self. The latest bloom happened when I tried to put in a new laterite under the gravel, I messed it up and ended up with what you see in the other pictures because of the excess iron in the water instead of under the gravel to feed the roots. Although there are different forms of algae, excess iron is the most common cause of hair algae, which is like threads of very fine green hair growing over the tank which I found to be more prominent in the upper half of the tank and around the filter top where the water outlet is, as this is where algae can also consume vast amounts of oxygen.
It has been stated in another article on a different site that iron is easy to get rid of with water changes, and I do agree to a certain level, but when you do what I did it is NOT that easy.Although I am trying to explain about the nutrients plants need, I have to add that other elements the likes of cleanliness of water, regular water changes (of which too many over a short time can be just as bad as no water changes) all play a part in keeping ALGAE away.So over all, the key to a clean near algae free tank has a lot to do with BALANCE.
I am not going to say there are many ways to rid algae but more reduce it and stunt its growth, as I have tried to explain it is all about NUTRIENT CONTROL, but there are dips and chemicals available to aid this should you need, or should I say WHEN you need.

MY TANKS LOG

2008-02-11T00:05:00.009Z

I will build this article as i go along and update as things happen or i change my tanks for any reason. It will be a bit topsy turvy untill i get things in the right order.

I am going to start with the weekend:

9/10 february 2008:

I nearly lost my zebra danios yesterday morning. I had moved them last week into the tank I was using for the angel fry. All seemed to be ok and put in some plants so it wasn’t so bare and as a growing on tank for the plants.
Any way long story short I did a WC yesterday and all was ok. Last night they seemed to by a little dozy but not being to good my self I thought it was just me.I got a wake up call in the morning from my partner that something was wrong with them. I got and seen them and new some thing was wrong. Did a 75% WC and then did a water test.
OOOOhhhhhh boy no wonder they were not in best form. Ammonia had gone through the roof as had nitrites. Got them out I hope just in time and let them settle in the other tanks water before placing them back into the larger tank.Today they all seem to be picking up and getting back to normal.
BUT when I got up this morning I found I had lost one of my first fish I got “boasmani rainbow” I was devastated to have lost one of my best friends. Had her for 2yrs. So I did water checks again and the small tank ammonia 0 but nitrites still through the roof (only plants in there now) and checked the 240L and now I have .25 ammonia, and pH has dropped to 6 or less so for some reason every thing is going wrong this weekend and I don’t know why or what is happening I am just doing WC on the 240 in the hopes I get it sorted out and not lose any more friends.

This is my 240L tank set up 12mths ago. I have let it go over grown of late because of ill health but have just lately started to redo the tank.
It started as i was doing a WC and started to trim back a few plants, and one thing led to another and before i knew it i had trimmed every thing right back.
I wasnt planning on doing this but i started so i now have to finish it.

I trimmed all the plants starting on the right side of the tank and in doing so found two "ehinodorus ozolots that i thought i had lost some time ago. So i removed a lot od dead & damaged leaves to clear space for them to go back in. Although i didnt intend and have no replacement plants to go in the empty spaces as yet i re layed them the best i could to end up with what you see below.

On the left side i did the same sort of thing, i srtipped dead and old leaves to again leave gaps.
I removed all the plants on the left side as some were the worse for algae and cleaned them up the best i could. i am going to replant the left side with what i have left of the original plants.
I have noticed in the few days this has been going on that the tank is a lot brighter with not being so over grown and the plants are pearling more than ever.
its 12mths since setting the tank up and needs new tubes so they are on my shopping list at the present moment.

11th February 2008:

Yesterday (Sunday) I did water checks on the 240 and found ammonia had risen above zero of which I had never had I this tank since setting it up. I checked again this morning and found ammonia was still above zero but below .25 but was enough to have me worried as to why this has happened.
I have over the past few days done a lot of cleaning and moving plants around as well giving the filter a damn good clean out which was long over due as the filter pads where like a mud bath, I didn’t touch the bio balls when I cleaned the filter out.
I also today did another trim of the hair grass at the front left side of the tank. I am still trying to work out the best way to re plant what I have taken out and have in storage at the moment. I have also acquired some artificial bog wood pieces one of which I want to use in the tank but again haven’t yet decided on its position.

The tank stats at this time are:
pH = 6
ammonia = .25
nitrites = 0
nitrates = 5
kH = 2
gH = 4
p04 = 0

Although kH has risen from 1 the pH has dropped from 6.4 down to 6. so when ammonia has gone I am going to buffer to raise the kH to 5 and this should also raise the pH back up again.

12th February 2008:

I checked all stats again this morning and every thing was back to normal again.
Now all stats are safe again I want to get the pH & kH up higher. I am aiming for
kH of approx 5 and pH higher than 6.

I added 2 teaspoons of baking soda to approx ½ litre of tank water and mixed well till all had dispersed.
I waited 4 hours and rechecked the water stats. The pH had risen from 6 up to 6.4 and kH had risen from 2 up to 3 so I intend on adding another 2 teaspoons of baking soda tonight.
Given the last rise of 1 kH & .4 pH I would expect to see the same rise again which should take the reads to pH 6.8 & kH 4.

13th February 2008:

Checked all stats again this morning and I am now happy with the results although a little surprised at the kH, I had only expected a rise of 1dg.
The kH has risen by 2dg not 1dg as I had thought it would from 3dg to 5dg.
The pH has risen as expected from 6.4 to 6.6.

The full tank stats now are:
pH = 6.6
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites = 0
Nitrates = 5
kH = 5
gH = 4
P04 = 0

Conclusion:
I have added in total over 48hrs 4 teaspoons of baking soda to the 240L tank and this has had the result of raising the pH from 6 to 6.6 a rise of .6
kH has risen from 2dg to 5dg a rise of 3dg.

The stripped angels have spawned again (that’s another story) over night so I would assume all is ok with in the tank.
All that leaves me to do now is to finish re laying the tank as I have not been able to the last few days.
I need to finish the left side that have the plants tied with lead weights at the moment and to trim around the right side where the bog wood is. I am hoping to have this finished by the end of the week or early next week.

I think I have also created my own problem with trying to re lay the tank. with all the messing about over the last week I seem now to be going down the algae root again as I did last year with constant cloudy water and green dust algae on the glass.
I will be watching very closely over the next few days as to what is going on. I have removed a lot of the plants and I think that this could be the problem as there is to much nutrients in the water for them to take up. I am going to reduce the lighting over the next week by cutting out 1 set of lights and to see if this helps until the pants start to grow back or I can get my hands on some extra plants.

19th February 2008:

Well since the 13th all has been so so with the tank. There is a constant white mist in the tank at the moment but I have put this down the all the re arranging of the plants and a major gravel vac last week.
I am in the process of completely re scaping the tank and have already got a nice piece of bogwood for the new scape. I am just waiting for the plants to arrive which have been ordered but not 100% sure when they will arrive. Here are some pics of the bogwood.

The plants I have ordered are:

Name of plant qty tropica No

Bolbitis heudelotii x2 006
Ceratopteris thalictroides x2 005A
Cladophora aegagropila x3 000C (moss balls)
Hemianthuus callitrichoides x3 048B
Hygrophila corymbosa “red” x3 053
Hygrophila difformis x2 051
Limnophila aquatica x2 046
Nymphaea lotus x2 019
Pogostemon helferi x2 053H
Ricca fluitans x2 001
Shinnersia rivularis x2 053E

Total 25 plants

28th February 2008:

Well all is not what I had planned. I am having trouble getting my plants I ordered and lost the angel fry (again) and ended up having to do a BO to get rid of the pea soup in the tank. The GW was because of all the moving about and up rooting the plants so that’s my own fault. I uncovered the tank today after a 3 day BO and its all gone and all fish seem to be ok and came racing over to the glass when I un covered the tank its great when you know your appreciated and some one is made up to see you, even if it is only because they want feeding LOL.

In the mean time I was board and I set up my first nano tank LOL

to give an idea of the size of this tank i have used a normal size pen.

The actual tank is the lid off the API master test kit.

9th March 2008

Time just seems to be flying by and I am getting no where with rescaping the tank.
I still haven’t got the plants I ordered and have had to re order them again.
So I set about designing the layout as I had only a mental picture in my head. Although the picture below is not the best I know what it is supposed to look like LOL.

The layout is not final and is likely to change before it is complete.

28th march 2008

Been a while since I updated so here we go.
I finally got my plants in but most didn’t arrive. I only ended up with 12 out of 25 I ordered so I haven’t been able to complete the re scape fully at the moment.
I still have a couple of plants to go in and have to still do the right hand side of the tank. but below is how the left side started off of which is going to change again.

this pic is 4 days after planting the "limnophila aquatica" at the rear left. it has shot up.

also at this time both sets of angels have spawned agin

How Drop Checkers Work

2008-02-09T16:58:00.002Z

***Checking c02 levels***
All plants will benefit from c02 in any tank, be it low light or high light. The one problem people tend to have is how to check how much c02 is in the tank. This can be done one of two ways. 1. The most common method of checking c02 is taking the pH/kH read and checking them against a c02 table, the aim is to have a reading within the green boxes. This method is fine and has been used for a great many years, but, this method has ONE MAJOR problem, it relies on the water column having “NO BUFFERS” in the water. If any buffers, ph up or pH down etc or even p04 are in the water then the reads will not give a true account of the total c02 in the water. 2. The more favoured and more accurate way of checking c02 is by using a drop checker and a 4dkh solution. This when placed in the tank will show by a blue, yellow or green color what the c02 levels are. Blue = too little. Yellow = too much. Green = OK. Green indicates a c02 level of 30ppm. There are other dkh solutions that can be used 3 & 5dkh which give higher or lower reads than 30ppm depending on the level you want but 30ppm is the more natural for a planted tank. Directions: 1. Turn drop checker upside down and half fill the ball (approx 5-6 drops) of 4dkh solution 2. Add 1-2 drops of APIs low pH solution bromo blue) the amount of bromo blue will not affect the read only the deepness of the color. 3. Turn the drop checker the right way up, being careful not to spill the solution. 4. Place the drop checker in the tank so it is visible. 5. Approx 1hr after you place the drop checker in the tank you should see the color of the regent changed or starting to change. After 2hrs you should be able to read the color as is to get the correct level of c02 in the tank Drop checkers & 4dkh solution can be found here: aquaessentials So how does this little glass ball work? A drop checker is where the 4 deg° KH standard and a pH indicator, “bromo blue”(found in API low pH test kit) is placed in the ball of the drop checker. The shape of the drop checker ensures that there is a gap between the aquarium water and the indicator solution When c02 is injected into the aquarium water above its normal level the c02 will escape (outgas) up into the drop checker where gases exchange will take place. When this happens the c02 gas will be absorbed by the indicator solution and lower the pH of the solution giving the colors described above. When c02 is not injected into the water the opposite happens, this being any c02 in the solution will escape back into the water giving the colors described above.

Planting & pruning

2008-01-31T07:53:00.000Z

Planting & Pruning you’re aquatic Plants:

With planted tanks starting to come into their own right along side fish tanks there is an untold amount of information on how to set up and keep them alive, but very little on how to look after the plants in respect of “planting and pruning” them. Here I hope to be able to give you at least the basics of planting & pruning your under water plants.
Basic plant lay out

There are 4 basic types of aquatic plants:

Stem.
Rhizome.
Root/potted.
Floating.

Stem plants:

Planting:
When getting ready to plant a stem plant, first cut with a scissors or knife an angled cut just above one of the healthy green nodes leaving as much of the plant as is possible. When you plant it, push the lower part of the fresh cut plant roughly half to three quarters of the depth of the gravel. Allow enough space between plants to allow light to reach the lower leaves. Stem plants are usually planted in their own random patterned group using five to eight stems. When the stem plant finally grows to the top of your aquarium, it will have rooted and sent out white roots in some species, from the nodes all the way up the plant.

Pruning:
Long-stemmed plants should be trimmed to size that will complement and be in balance of the rest of the tank layout. The scissors should be as sharp as possible. Two or three new leaves will grow from each cut, so the plants may become top-heavy with growth after too much trimming and the stems will break easily. When this starts to happen, trim the plants less often and higher up on the stem. The cut off heads can also be re-planted if wanted.

STEM PLANT CUTTING:

Top cutting: the top part of the plant is the active growing part so makes for the most reliable of cuttings.

Middle cuttings: Although mid sections can be used they will take longer than top sections to establish as they have to not only grow roots but also side shoots to form healthy growth.

Bottom cuttings: when top or middle section pruning has been done the lower section can be left in check and will form new buds from where it has been cut.

Rhizome plants:
Planting:
Plants with rhizomes “DO NOT GET PLANTED” they are attached to wood, rock or décor or simply sat on top of the substrate.
Anubias: (one of the most popular aquatic plants) are strong and can live for a long time, but Anubias leaves get covered with algae very easily, so if you spot any ugly looking leaves (dead, algae-covered, full of holes, etc,) remove them quickly, and new leaves will grow. You can also cut the rhizome of the Anubias if it starts growing in a direction you don't want (and you can replant the cut part).
Ferns: such as Microsorum (java fern) and Bolbitis grow quickly and will soon over take the balance of the layout. Leaves should be removed once they become too big or old. Microsorum develops black spores under its leaves for reproduction. The ugly spores and secondary rhizomes should be removed carefully so as not to damage the main rhizome.

Rooted/pot plants:
Planting:
Potted plants: are supplied with the plant specimen rooted into mineral wool inside a slatted plastic pot. To plant, cut off the pot or gently tap out the mineral wool bound root portion if root growth allows.
Tap the pot and remove the plant with all the rock wool

Gently separate the wool.

Some potted plants can have between 3 and 4 or more separate plants.

Gently remove the mineral wool from the roots (If some mineral wool remains this will not have any adverse or detrimental effects) and then can be planted. Spread the roots out to prevent “Bunching” which can cause root rot and trim any excessively long roots to size.
The above plants are trimmed the same as stem plants in between the leaves.

Cryptocoryne’s: also need to be trimmed! The most important thing about cutting Crypt leaves is to cut it right at the bottom, otherwise you will be surprised by a nasty mass of dead matter after lots of wrong trimmings.

Plants with runners:
Other plants include those that grow runners from their roots E.G. valls.
Depending on what the plant is they are normally held together by a lead type weight or in a pot with wool(hair grass) for example.

Then separated into individual plants ready for planting.

Propagating plants with runners:
Small and large plants that grow runners are separated by cutting in between each new growth.

Small ground plants that produce runners are no different in the technique used for planting.

When plants that grow from runners, like E. tenellus, Glossostigma, Vallisneria, and Sagittaria, become too thick, their roots will suffocate unless they are trimmed. Sagittaria and Vallisneria don't grow over themselves no matter how thick they get, so simply removing dead leaves from time to time is sufficient. E. tenellus and Glossostigma are small plants, however, and when they become dense, the leaves will pile up five or six leaves deep and the lower ones will become completely asphyxiated. These grow along the walls, so carefully cut and remove the runner around 7cm from the wall to prevent overgrowth.
Floating plants:
These are exactly what they say they are, floating plants. once they have been removed from any packaging they are simply placed in the water surface and left to float.

CAUTION:
With floating plants they can very quickly over run the whole surface area with out you realising it and block out light to lower plants this could cause an algae problem for higher light plants below if they are restricted from their light source.

Planted tanks 2

2008-01-22T03:24:00.001Z

Kittiwakes low light tank

Tank 180L(47.5g) Lighting 2.4wpg, no CO2 injection, no significant plant feeding except regular water changes, fish waste and the occasional plant food dosing (~once a month). Whilst things don’t grow like crazy there is reasonable growth. If I spent a bit of effort on the plants I could probably get better growth but I am happy with how it is. Only problem is Amazon sword grows out of tank then frazzles its leaves on the luminaire.

Bill's low light tank

160L community tank with 38w lighting= 43 US gal = 0.88wpg! No Co2, API Plant Zone weekly.That's supposed to be only able to support stuff like java moss and Anubias.

Curlywigs Tank

Wilson's Tank

Pauldrinkwater's tank

Fenn444 tank

Basic Plant Care

2008-01-20T20:41:00.000Z

Basic Guide to caring for your plants:

Introduction:

This is merely a guide to answer the very basic questions of plant keeping.

There are 3 main elements that aquarium plants need for photosynthesis.

Light
Temperature
c02

All of these are fully dependent on each other, that is to say if there is enough of 2 of them and the 3rd is in short supply then the 1st 2 will reach a plateau way below their needs.
There is of course other requirements needed but these three are by far the most important as if the plant can’t get these resources they will not be able to use any other of the elements needed to grow.

Lighting

Types of light:
Plants need light for photosynthesis to take place. In nature that would of course be sunlight and we have to try and replicate this as much as possible.
Always make sure that the lighting you use is suitable for aquarium plants and can be in a wide variety, tungsten, fluorescent, metal halide. The spectrum of the lights can have an effect on plant growth.
Duration:
Lighting of the correct type will be of no use at all if the amount of time is
In-correct. This can be from 8-12hrs depending on the set up you have.

Substrate

Types:
There are many types of substrate that can be used. Plain gravel, coloured gravel, sand, and don’t forget a good planted tank will always benefit from a “plant substrate” under the gravel or sand to help feed the roots.
Depth:
The depth should be approx 2” at the front of the tank rising to approx 3” at the rear of the tank.
Then of course you can fit in landscaping with rocks etc to form terraces to complement you aquascape

Water Chemistry

This can be a very complex subject and will not be possible to discuss this fully here since one part effect another in so many different ways and each aquarium is different to the next.
So much so that in general we need a pH around 7, nitrates around 5-10, and depending on if dosing or not low to zero p04 etc etc.

Temperature
Most tanks are in the mid range of 75f/24c and most plants and fish will live in harmony with each other. A good few plants do prefer a cooler environment.

Plant Food
A wide range of plant foods are now available and are down to personal choice and cost. One excellent liquid feed, of which I have used, is “tropica plant nutrition” used n conjunction with tropica plant substrate can produce excellent results.
Also available are plant tabs that are used in the substrate at the roots of the plants.

Filtration

· under gravel filter
· internal filter
· external filter

· Under gravel filters are not normally recommended for planted aquariums but I know of a few that use these with just as good results as any other filter available.

· Internal filters can be as good as external filters depending on the overall set up of the tank

· External filters are and have become the normal so to speak for most planted and fish tanks. They offer excellent flow rates and durability and cleaning outside the tank for fewer disturbances to the tank in general.

Inhabitants
For some reason most people dislike snails in their aquariums but are an important part of the tanks eco-system. In part snails don’t eat your plants but waste food and algae. If snails are on your plants it is most likely they are eating algae or rotten plant matter. There are of course plants that snails will enjoy snacking on and if this is a problem then fish in the form of clown loaches will soon sort this problem out.

Fish
There are of course some fish which will devour most plants in an aquarium, Oscars, silver dollars, large plecos etc. other small to medium fish will be more than happy to live in your planted tank.

Planting Tips

Stems & Bunches:
If you have a plant with a single stem with leaves coming directly off the stems, then they can be planted directly into the gravel and should root fairly quickly.
If they are shooting roots at points up the stem then they are plants that can get their nourishments directly from the water column. E.g. Elodia, Cabomba, Hygrophylia.

Single plants:
Most single plants can be planted directly into the substrate without any problems.
A few exceptions are those that come to a central point at where the roots emanate from and these plants must be planted with their crown visible above the substrate.
If they float after planting them then bury them for a couple of days then very slowly ease them up above the top of the substrtae.
There are too many to even think of listing them here but include, vallisneria,Echiodorus and sagittaria.

Bulbs:
There can be confusion over bulb type plants as many tend to bury them as they do with garden bulbs. Aquarium bulbs should not be buried as they will end up rotting away in most cases. Simply sit the bulb on top of the substrate and let them do their own thing.

Ferts & c02

2008-01-18T11:40:00.000Z

General guide to EI dosing for a 125L tank

With EI it is suggested that each chemical is added separately or at least until you get the feel for the dosing then may be all the ferts can be added into one bottle. Those listed below are for macro nutrients dosing. For trace mix use “tropica plant nutrition” or “seachem flourish”

Potassium Nitrate - 40g to 500ml of water and adding 10ml per 100L of water would give you 5ppm NO3.

Potassium Phosphate - 15g to 500ml of water and adding 5ml per 100L of water would give you 1ppm PO4.

Potassium Sulphate - 55g to 500ml of water and adding 10ml per 100L of water would give you 5ppm K.

Magnesium Sulphate - 70g to 500ml of water and add 50ml once a week per 100L of water - this would give you 7ppm Mg.

Tank volumes are in US gallons.

To convert to UK gallons multiply these figures by 0.83 Your tank is 125L=33 us galls.

20-40 Gallons (76-152 litres)

20ml solution or 1/4 tsp KNO3 3x a week

12ml solution or 1/16 tsp KH2PO4 3x a week

5ml solution or 1/16 tsp K2SO4 3x a week5ml or 1/16 tsp traces 3x a week

Sunday ....... 50% water change. Add KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4

Monday....... Add traces

Tuesday...... Add KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4

Wednesday...... Add traces

Thursday...... Add KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4

Friday...... Add traces

Saturday...... Rest day

Basics:

You will need the ferts which I link you to from AE. KNO3,KH2P04,K2SO4 and magnesium Sulphate 4 x 500ml bottles.

Mix ferts as per above and dose as above

***Checking c02 levels***
All plants will benefit from c02 in any tank, be it low light or high light. The one problem people tend to have is how to check how much c02 is in the tank. This can be done one of two ways. 1. The most common method of checking c02 is taking the pH/kH read and checking them against a c02 table, the aim is to have a reading within the green boxes. This method is fine and has been used for a great many years, but, this method has ONE MAJOR problem, it relies on the water column having “NO BUFFERS” in the water. If any buffers, ph up or pH down etc or even p04 are in the water then the reads will not give a true account of the total c02 in the water. 2. The more favoured and more accurate way of checking c02 is by using a drop checker and a 4dkh solution. This when placed in the tank will show by a blue, yellow or green color what the c02 levels are. Blue = too little. Yellow = too much. Green = OK. Green indicates a c02 level of 30ppm. There are other dkh solutions that can be used 3 & 5dkh which give higher or lower reads than 30ppm depending on the level you want but 30ppm is the more natural for a planted tank. Directions: 1. Turn drop checker upside down and half fill the ball (approx 5-6 drops) of 4dkh solution 2. Add 1-2 drops of APIs low pH solution bromo blue) the amount of bromo blue will not affect the read only the deepness of the color. 3. Turn the drop checker the right way up, being careful not to spill the solution. 4. Place the drop checker in the tank so it is visible. 5. Approx 1hr after you place the drop checker in the tank you should see the color of the regent changed or starting to change. After 2hrs you should be able to read the color as is to get the correct level of c02 in the tank Drop checkers & 4dkh solution can be found here: aquaessentials So how does this little glass ball work? A drop checker is basically a reservoir that holds an indicator solution, 4 deg° KH standard and a pH indicator, “bromo blue”(found in API low pH test kit) and an air space that separates the aquarium water from coming into contact with the indicator solution. When CO2 is injected, and the aquarium water contains more CO2 than the indicator solution, the injected CO2 will outgas from the aquarium water into the airspace inside the drop checker. The CO2 in the air space of the drop checker will then be absorbed into the indicator solution (bromo blue) inside the drop checker. That absorption of CO2 into the indicator solution will then lower the pH, which in turn will change the color of the pH indicator. When CO2 is NOT injected into the aquarium, and the indicator solution contains more CO2 than the aquariumwater, the CO2 will outgas from the indicator solution into the airspace inside the drop checker. From the airspace inside the drop checker the CO2 will get reabsorbed into the aquarium water. The out gassing of CO2 from the indicator solution inside the drop checker will raise the pH of the solution (bromo blue) which will change the color of the pH indicator.

Setting up a planted tank

2008-01-18T10:32:00.000Z

TIPS FOR STARTING A PLANTED TANK:

Co2 injection does more than just help your plants grow better, it adds for better water quality and also offers a way to gradually reduce the pH in the tank. Which can aid in some cases a better quality of fish as well as plant life?The simplest co2 system is the natural fermentation process to supply carbon dioxide to the water and more cost effective for the smaller tank set ups.
The lager the tank the more c02 needed and would suggest the system of bottled co2, valves and gauges.Forethought is the key to a well planted and designed planted aquarium, which should be viewed as an enjoyable not a chore aspect of your planted tank.In order to gain an aspect of this beautiful hobby, there is an abundance of books and reading material on the market to help you through every step of the way to setting up and maintaining you planted aquarium.
The first step in setting up your tank is to choosing the substrate to cover the bottom of the tank and help keep the plants from floating around.Gravel aprox 2 to 5 cm will be sufficient and should be sloped from the front up to the rear, the rear being deeper than the front. This will give a vision of depth to the finished display of your tank. There is an array of types of gravel on the market and is more often chosen for personal choice than for suitability. I.e. the darker the gravel the better to bring out the color of some of your fish, the likes of neon tetras & cardinals will be more prominent in front of dark backgrounds but will be lost if you have white or bright colored gravel.
When purchasing gravel make sure it is inert, as some gravel can alter your water quality in different ways. Always read any information on the package and don’t be afraid to ask questions before you buy. It is also wise to consider using a laterlite at this stage as trying to put this in after the tank is set up is only asking for trouble and headaches.Once you have your gravel in the tank its time to start your aquascaping of the tankPlace rocks and any wood in a way so as to give an overall visual balance to the tank.
Try to place rock and wood in such a way to add depth. I.E. rock sloping from the rear to the front will give a cascading affect. Then place your plants in the tank, again following the above rule. Rocks and wood can be used to highlight some of your favorite plants, the larger of these being placed at the rear or to the side of the tank.
Rocks can be used to make walls or dividers and raised areas for planting in the way you would do in a house garden.Bogwood is excellent for dividing the taller plants at the rear from the smaller plants at the front, and is ideal for attaching the plants Anubias or moss type plants that need tying down. Some stunning effects can be achieved using these methods. If you are not sure about planting at the start, there are now a number of plants that can be bought already attached to bogwood in various forms.As I stated in one of my other articles do not rush setting up your planted tank.
I hope you have as much fun and enjoyment from your planted tank as I do.

Setting up a planted tank

This article will be dedicated to help beginners set up their new tank and help them through the set up period of their planted tank.
The thread will be done in stages, from buying your equipment, tank etc to the final stage of turning on the power and getting your plants to grow.
This article is intended for beginners to planted tanks in general and for those who have no or little experience of setting up a planted tank. Although fish are and will become apart of your set up we will not be dealing with them in this thread.

So were do we start?
At this stage you have obviously decided to set up a planted tank and are scratching your head wondering what to buy and were to put it.
The first thing to do BEFORE running out and buying a tank is to STOP! and think of these 2 questions first.
1. Where you are going to put the tank?
2. How big a tank can you have (this depends on not only cost but the amount of space you have in your house or apt, and if you have wooded floors or concrete floors.
Once you have decided how big a tank you want and were you are going to place the tank (and this must NOT be in direct sunlight) then you go and get your tank.

CHOOSING EQUIPMENT:
For a normal every day aquarium it would be best to choose an all in one aquarium e.g. jewel aquariums, or similar come complete with everything you need to set up and go you just need to add water, gravel, plants and fish.
If you decide to set up all individual items then this is a bit harder to do.
After deciding on the size of the tank you then have to choose the rest of the equipment to match the size of the tank. You will need the following equipment:

FILTER (internal or external)
HEATER
TANK HOOD
LIGHTING
GRAVEL
SUBSTRATE
C02

FILTER:
Internal or external: Internal filters work fine and come with most all-in-one set ups but limit the space you have in the tank for displaying your plants and can also look unsightly.
External filters are more suited to lager set ups but they also give better circulation to any size of tank.
Under gravel filters are very rarely used in planted aquaria and are also difficult to maintain for cleaning properly.

HEATER:
The most important thing about the heater is that you get the correct wattage for the size of your tank.
Internal heaters are fine and again come with most all-in-one set ups. If you are going to keep fish in your planted tank then you must make sure the heater has a protective cover to stop the fish burning them selves on it.

HOOD & LIGHTING:

If you choose to have an open top aquarium you will not need a hood.
But in general you will a hood that has or will accommodate enough lighting to help grow your plants and to stop some fish from jumping out the tank.
Lighting now days comes in al sorts of different types (explain later) but for the everyday tank normal aquatic tubes with two extra tubes fitted will do for now.

GRAVEL & SUBSTRATE:
You will need something to hold the plants down to stop them floating around the tank. Gravel comes in different sizes and colours and this is up to the individual to decide on that, but as a general rule the gravel should not be to big or the roots will not hold and you will have floating plants. Sand can also be used.
Substrate is a layer of fertiliser like substance placed under the gravel to allow the roots to feed correctly. Substrate is important but you can do with out if necessary.
C02:
C02 is imho one of the most important additions to any planted tank and makes a world of difference to all plants.

Routine Maintainace of your tank

Daily
• Check for any missing livestock and their health. Check that all plants show NO signs of ill health.
• Check water temperature
• Make sure that all equipment is working. E.g. lights and filters(s)

Twice weekly
• Gently disturb any fine leaved plants such as cabomba and dense foregrounds, hairgrass etc to remove any trapped debris which can weaken the plant

Weekly
• Test water for nitrItes (N02), nitrAtes (N03) pH & hardness. pH/hardness will determine the c02 in the tank
• Remove dead or weak leaves and other plant matter.
• Use an algae magnet, pad or scraper to remove excess algae from the glass.
• Siphon or remove any mulm from the surface of the gravel etc. and replace the water you have removed whilst doing this with new, dechlorinated water. Siphon out enough water to give you at east a 20% water change, this will help replenish minerals and help to lower nitrItes and phosphates.
• Replenish liquid ferts after water changes as per manufactures instructions. REMEMBER to only add ferts to the amount of water you have removed, NOT to the total of water in the tank as this will lead to excess nutrients and may cause an algae bloom.
• Clean the tank glass and any condensation under the hood and around the lights. This will help the light penetration into the tank.

Every two weeks
• Thoroughly clean half the sponge in the internal filters using water from the aquarium. Then tip it away.

Monthly
• Switch off external filters and clean the media in water from the aquarium.
• Replace any filter floss

Every three months
• Check substrate for any compaction and gently loosen it with your fingers
• Remove and clean impellers and housing in pumps and filters

Every 6-12 months
• Replace fluorescent tubes. Replace them aprox after 10mths even if they appear to be working fine as they loose their power and intensity.
• Replace filter sponges. Over time the bacterial capacity of sponges diminish and they need to be replaced. Only replace HALF at a time and the other half about a month later, this will reduce the loss of bacteria.

When needed
• Replenish liquid ferts as per instructions
• Check c02 supplies so as you don’t run short
• Trim large plants so they don’t grow across the surface and block out the light
• Trim large stem plants and any that have become thin at the base, cut the tops off and re-plant.
• Large leaf plants such as Echinodorus sp. Need to have their large outer leaves removed and roots trimmed, they should respond with new healthy smaller leaves for you.
• Remove any debris from the tank, e.g. any loose or floating dead leaves, and old leaves that have become tatty or have algae on them and any uneaten food that you missed when cleaning the gravel.

Good plants for beginners

The ideal conditions required for plants in the aquarium are not always the same as that for your fish. So how do they live together in nature? Very simply the aquarium is not the same as real life, i.e. you wouldn’t normally find the plants we keep in our tanks living together in true life. As also some fish will destroy plants when in an aquarium but we won’t deal with that here.
Below are some plants that should grow in most, if not all fresh water aquariums. This is intended for beginners, and not for the more experienced aquarist. These plants are probably the hardiest of all aquatic plants.

1.AMAZON SWORD.
Probably the most well known aquarium plant. This is a very hardy plant and adapts well to nearly all types of water conditions. Root type. Placement: rear of tank
2.CABOMBA.
Again adjusts well to most water conditions. Root type. Placement: middle/rear
3.EGERIA.
Very strong plant that does well to help reduce nitrates in the fight against algae. Root type. Placement: middle/rear.
4.ANUBIAS.
Very like Amazon sword. But one type actually grows a flower type head through out the year. I use this one like a water tester. If it is growing well and flowers then there is not much wrong with your water. Rhizome type. Placement: middle/foreground.
5.PYGMY CHAIN SWORDPLANT .
Said not to do to well in harder water but other varieties would do better. Ideal foreground plant creating a carpet effect. Root type. Placement: foreground.

The above 5 plants are IMO the most popular in the plant range for aquariums depending on the type you are seeking.
Although I have not listed ph range or temp range for the above it is more important to keep the tank stable in water stats as it is while fish keeping.
I suggest the beginner does some homework before going out and getting what he thinks will look great in the tank only to find the fish have eaten it, or it has died by the end of the first 2 weeks because the plant is not suited to that type of environment or the fish you keep. Plants are very much like the fish you keep, they have different requirements than that of your fish so you have to make good for the fish as well as the plants.
You may as I did, start an aquarium and then start to add plants and find you then want the best of both worlds. Hope this helps to shed some light on happy plant as well as fish keeping.

General Water Hardness

2008-01-17T04:06:00.000Z

General Water Hardness
0 to 4 dh	0 to 70 ppm	Very Soft
4 to 8 dh	70 to 140 ppm	Soft
8 to 12 dh	140 to 210 ppm	Medium Hard
12 to 18 dh	210 to 320 ppm	Fairly Hard
18 to 30 dh	320 to 530 ppm	Hard
>30 dh	>530 ppk	Very Hard

Water Chemistry.pH/kH/gh

2008-01-17T03:31:00.000Z

WATER CHEMISTRY

PH Scale

Defines how acidic or alkaline the water is. The scale ranges from 0 -14. A pH value of 7 is called neutral, It is neither alkaline nor acidic. Below 7 is acidic and higher than 7 is alkaline. Each number on the scale between 7-0 is 10 times more acidic than it’s next higher number. So 6 is 10 times more acidic than 7, and 5 would be a 100 times more acidic than 7 and so on. The numbers between 7-14 are alkaline and the higher number is 10 times more alkaline than it’s next lower number. So 8 is 10 times more alkaline than 7, and 9 would be a 100 times more alkaline than 7 and so on.

Raise pH

Add coral or limestone to filter, Add rocks or sand containing limestone or coral into tank, Use a alkaline chemical purchased from LFS, Aerate the water.

Lower pH
Do water changes with RO water or even softened water, Add peat into filter, Add some bog-wood to the tank, Inject CO2, Use an acid chemical purchased from LFS.

kH

Carbonate hardness or temporary hardness. Measures waters ability to buffer added acid, in other words stop drops in pH.

Raise kH
Adding sodium bicarbonate eg “baking soda“, Aerate the water, Adding products purchased from LFS to increase kH.

Lower kH
Injecting CO2, Do water changes with RO water mixed with tap water to get desired kH, Adding products purchased from LFS to decrease kH.

gH

General hardness measures dissolved magnesium, calcium and other elements. gH doesn’t directly affect pH, The interaction of higher gH and kH does affect waters pH, making water more alkaline. Acidic water usually has low gH and kH.

Raise gH
Adding calcium carbonate will also increase kH, Adding limestone will also increase kH, Adding marble chipping will also increase kH all of these options will cause an increase in pH .

Lower gH
Add peat into filter, Do water changes with RO water mixed with tap water to get desired gH, Add water softener products purchased from LFS to decrease gH this removes calcium and magnesium and replaces them with sodium. Caution is advised if using this because it is said that soft water fish don’t like sodium.

Take great care, Any changes to pH should be done gradually to avoid stressing your fish.

Signs of deficiencies

2008-01-17T02:13:00.001Z

Signs of deficiencies:

Symptoms	Cause
Old leaves turn yellowish/ red	Nitrogen deficiency
Leaf loss and small dead areas	Phosphate deficiency
Black/ brown leaves, plants die	Excess phosphates
Yellow spots on old leaves and yellowish margins on younger leaves	Potassium deficiency
Yellowish margins on young leaves with deformat	Calcium deficiency
Yellow spots on old leaves while veins stay green	Magnesium deficiency
Young leaves turn yellow	Sulfur deficiency
Yellowing leaves starting from the tip then become transparent	Iron deficiency
Yellow spots between the veins, margins and tips	Zinc deficiency
Plant stays small slow or now growth white deposits on leaves (calcium)	CO2 deficiency
Fish gasp for air on surface	Excess CO2
Sluggish fish no plant growth	Oxygen deficiency
Plants stop growing/ black roots	Substrate problem

***Iron Deficiency***
This is a classic sign of iron deficiency in plants. Iron is a MICROnutrient and although thought for many years that iron(as well as phosphates p04) cause algae it does if to much is in the tank and other nutrients are not balanced.

***Potassium Deficiency***
This is a classic sign of potassium deficiency in plants. If potassium is not available to plants the start to disintegrate showing holes and leaves go very brittle.

***c02 deficiency***
c02 deficiency shows up as black markings on java fern as shown here.

Algae Alert

2008-01-17T00:28:00.000Z

Hydrogen .
Oxygen .
Carbon .
Nitrogen .
Calcium .
Magnesium .
Phosphate .
Sulfur

MICROnutrients (trace).

Iron.
Manganese.
Chlorine.
Zinc.
Baron.
Nickel.
Copper.
Molybdenum

water calculators

2008-01-16T08:02:00.000Z

c02 Calculator

General Water Hardness
0 to 4 dh	0 to 70 ppm	Very Soft
4 to 8 dh	70 to 140 ppm	Soft
8 to 12 dh	140 to 210 ppm	Medium Hard
12 to 18 dh	210 to 320 ppm	Fairly Hard
18 to 30 dh	320 to 530 ppm	Hard
>30 dh	>530 ppk	Very Hard

***Gh Calculator***
Click anywhere out of the field for calculation. PPM DGH

VOLUME CALCULATOR

How to do a black out

2008-01-16T04:44:00.001Z

HOW TO DO A BLACK OUT TO REMOVE ALGAE

There seems to be quite a lot of questions about algae on all forums I attend just lately as always it is a bad point with many people. Personally I like some algae in my tanks to give a more natural look and feel to the tanks.
Those that don’t like and want to rid algae in a tropical tank with or with out plants, can use the blackout (BO) method. BO does NOT cure the underlying problem that has caused the algae bloom in the first place but mealy re-sets the tank conditions back to as near normal as possible.
Depending on the severity of the algae bloom a BO can be from 3 days to 5 days.

1. Feed the fish about 1hr before starting the blackout (BO) then do a 50% water change.
2. Turn off c02 if you use it and install an air stone. If you don’t have an air stone to Airriate the water then adjust the filter so it moves the surface of the water as much as possible.
3. Completely cover the tank in the darkest sheets you have or double layers of black bin bags to block out ALL light.
4. Leave the tank fully covered for 5 days. YES fully covered for 5 days.
DO NOT PEEP. DO NOT FEED THE FISH. I must admit I did peep half way through a BO just to check all the fish and that there were no problems in the tank, and then recovered till the end of the 5 days.
DO NOT FEED.
5. At the end of the BO DO NOT remove all covers at once but slowly remove the covers over approx half an hour so as not to blind the fish with excess light. Do a 50% water change and lightly feed the fish. Remove air stone and restart c02 if it is used.

After doing the BO depending on the type of algae you had you may find the filter might be running a bit slower than normal if the algae has blocked the filter. If this is the case DO NOT strip the filter down as the tank is already a bit unbalanced due to the slowing of the plants during the blackout and the dieing algae.
You need to have a stable bio-film to process any ammonia issues quickly. With an extensive cleaning of your filter you will more than likely remove a huge portion of the bio-film and bio-filtering capacity.
The blackout method does work, I know by experience, in most tropical and planted tanks with community fish. If you have sensitive fish I would strongly advise to seek advice before doing a BO.
The only problem I know of at this time doing a BO is that some of the more delicate plants may suffer as will all plants having no light. Most will be leggy after the BO as they have been searching for any light. This should pass and within a week should be back to near normal.

Plant Speices

2008-01-15T01:25:00.000Z

Japanese Moss Ball
(Chladophora aegagropila)

Scientific Name	Chladophora aegagropila
Common Name	Moss Ball
Category	Mass
Temp	15-28
pH	6-8
Lighting	low-medium
Growth	V.Slow
difficulty	V. Easy
Origin	Japan
Position in Tank	Anywhere

Moss balls are undemanding, beautiful aquarium plants. Their eye catching spherical shape makes them an interesting addition to an aquarium or biorb.
FACT:
Moss balls can grow to a maximum size of 12 inches in diameter!
They are not only beautiful, but also help to reduce algae growing in the aquarium. Algae requires nutrients to grow, particularly phosphates and nitrates. Moss balls use these nutrients in the aquarium thus starving nusciance algae and reducing its growth.
Shrimps love to browse on the microorganisms found living on these plants.
Moss balls do not need any specialist care. They prefer moderate to bright light levels. Simply place your moss ball in the aquarium - do not push it into the gravel.
Moss balls are native to Japanese lakes and are so sought after that they have become a protected species. They have subsequently become a national treasure of Japan.
This has to be one of the easiest, low maintenance, useful and beautiful aquarium plants

Ambulia Sessiliflora

Name	Ambulia sessiliflora
Category	Stem
Temp	15-28
pH	6-8
Lighting	low-medium 2
Growth	Fast
difficulty	Easy
Origin	Southeast Asia
Position in Tank	Background

Anubias Barteri.
(Var:nana)

Scientific Name	Anubias Barteri
Common Name	Var:nana
Category	Rhizone
Temp	20-28
pH	6-8
Lighting	V.low-medium
Growth	V.Slow
difficulty	V. Easy
Origin	-------
Position in Tank	Attached to décor

Comments
Anubias barteri var. nana is a small, attractive plant which thrives in all conditions. It grows slowly, and the leaves survive for several years, giving slow-growing algae the chance to become established. The best result is achieved by planting on a stone or tree root. Fishing line can be used to attach the plant until it gains a hold. If planted on the bottom the rhizome must not be covered because it tends to rot. It flowers frequently under water. It is not eaten by herbivorous fish.

Echinodorus
('Ozelot')

Scientific Name	Echinodorus 'Ozelot'
Common Name	”Ozolot”
Category	Root
Hight	20-40cm
Width	25-30cm
Temp	20-28
pH	6-8
Lighting	V.low-medium
Growth	Fast
difficulty	V. Easy
Origin	Africa
Position in Tank	Middle/Rear

Comments
Echinodorus 'Ozelot' is a decorative hybrid between Echinodorus schluteri 'Leopard' and Echinodorus x barthii. Naturally, it is the elliptical black spots on the red-brown leaves that have given this plant the name 'Ozelot'. The spots are darkest on the youngest leaves, and unlike many other spotted Echinodorus Echinodorus 'Ozelot' retains its spots even at low light intensity. It is an undemanding, good plant for beginners.

Anubias barteri
(''coffeefolia'')

Scientific Name	Anubias barteri ''coffeefolia''
Common Name	''coffeefolia''
Category	Rhizone
Hight	20-40cm
Width	25-30cm
Temp	20-28
pH	6-8
Lighting	V.low-medium
Growth	Slow
difficulty	V. Easy
Origin	Africa
Position in Tank	Middle/Rear

Comments
Anubias barteri ''coffeefolia'' is a beautiful, low variety of Anubias barteri. The new leaves are red-brown. The color combination and leaf shape make it an attractive variety in both large and small aquariums. It flowers frequently under water. It is not eaten by herbivorous fish.

Vesicularia Dubyana
(Java Moss)

Scientific Name	Vesicularia Dubyana
Common Name	Java Moss
Category	Moss
Hight	Spreads
Width	Spreads
Temp	15-28
pH	Grows in most waters
Lighting	low-medium
Growth	V.Slow
difficulty	V. Easy
Origin	S.E. Aisia
Position in Tank	Anywhere

Comments
Java moss is a easy plant for beginners, Java moss is of Asian origin. It is a slow growing but a very hardy plant that tolerates a wide variety of water conditions. Light requirements range from very low - very high, pH tolerance 5-9. Temperature range is 59F - 82F. Java moss is a self attaching moss that is best grown when it is encouraged to attach itself to aquarium objects like stones or driftwood. Spread the moss out onto the driftwood a thin layer and tie it to the driftwood or stones with thin fishing line or cotton thread. Within a month, the line can be removed as the plant takes hold and begins to self propagate along the wood or stone.

Microsorium pteropus
(Java fern)

Scientific Name	Microsorium pteropus
Common Name	Java Fern
Category	Root
Hight	25-45cm
Width	10-30cm
Temp	20-28
pH	6-8
Lighting	V.low-medium
Growth	Slow
difficulty	V. Easy
Origin	S.E. Asia
Position in Tank	Middle/rear

Comments
The java fern is a slow growing plant. but is easy to care for. Propagation by adventitious shoots and rhizome splitting. The Java Fern does not need substrate to root in, It can be attached to wood or rocks. The Java Fern is poisonous and also because of its relatively bitter taste so most herbivores will not eat it. It can survive in temperatures between 22-30ºC and has a pH tolerance of 5.5-7.5. Very high levels of light can make the leaves become transparent. Can tolerate Soft, hard and even slightly brackish water conditions. There are several varieties, these include Windeløv, Red, Philippine, Tropica, Narrow and Undulata.

Vallisneria tortifolia
(Twisted Vallis)

Scientific Name	Vallisneria tortifolia
Common Name	Twisted Vallis
Category	Root
Hight	25-45cm
Width	10-15
Temp	20-30c
pH	6-8
Lighting	low-medium
Growth	V.Slow
difficulty	V. Easy
Origin	Tropical/sub tropical
Position in Tank	Middle/Rear

Comments
Vallisneria tortifolia is a dwarf species with tightly coiled leaves. It is a bit more delicate compared with other vallisneria species and also needs good lighting, Vallisneria tortifolia is good choice for small tropical aquarium. Because of its small size and bushy appearance it looks better as mid-ground plant rather than a background one. These plants propagate by sending out runners bearing daughter plants. The runners can be cut, and the daughter plants can be moved with care, if required. Because it doesn't need any special subtrate, co2 injection and isn't picky about water chemistry, makes it quite an easy plant to look after.

Fish

2008-01-15T00:04:00.000Z

(Melanotaenia Boesemani)
Boesemani Rainbowfish

Scientific Name	Melanotaenia Boesemani
Common Name	Boesemani Rainbowfish
Origin	Asia
Temp	20-28c
pH	6-8
Compatability	Community
Care Level	Easy

Comments
Rainbowfish are undemanding and easy to keep. Male boesemani show a split coloration that is completely different from most other rainbowfishes. The front part of the body is a brilliant dark bluish-grey, the rear half is bright orange-red with some yellow. The females are similar to many of the other species of Melanotaenia. Females generally have a shallower keel to their bodies, like most rainbowfish. Rainbowfish will eat flake food and small live foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms. Rainbowfish prefer an well planted aquarium with plenty light and open area's for swimming in.

Breeding
Boesemani will spawn on a spawning mop or Java moss. Remove the spawning medium after the egg's have been laid to a separate tank to raise the fry, the egg's will hatch from 7-10 days later. Boesmani fry are very small and difficult to raise.

Angel Fish (Pterophyllum altum, Pterophyllum leopoldi, Pterophyllum scalare)

Scientific Name	Pterophyllum altum, Pterophyllum leopoldi, Pterophyllum scalare
Common Name	Angel Fish
Origin	Tropical/sub tropical
Temp	20-26c
pH	6-7
Compatability	Community
Care Level	Easy

Most angelfish available in the hobby are the result of many decades of inter- breeding between the various species of Pterophyllum, especially P. scalare and P. leopoldi. The result of this is a domestic angelfish that is a hybrid, that has a resemblance to wild Pterophyllum species. Although most domestic angelfish resemble Pterophyllum scalare and are referred to as such, This is not the case they are a hybrid variety of the Pterophyllum species.

Pterophyllum scalare.
The most well known species of angelfish is Pterophyllum scalare. Pterophyllum scalare's colour is silver with three brown vertical stripes. It is very peaceful although sometimes can be aggressive to smaller fish. They spawn on broad-leaved sword plants in the wild, But will also spawn almost any flat sloped surface in an aquarium, Its maximum size is around 12–15 cm in length, up to 20 cm in height. Angelfish prefer water with a 6.0–8.0 pH, with 6.5-7.4 being ideal, a water hardness of 5.0–13.0 dGH, and a temperature range of 24–30°C (75–86°F). Average lifespan in an aquarium is 10 years. Freshwater angelfish are piscivores, meaning that they eat other fish. But in an aquarium, angelfish become lazy and much prefer flake food rather than having to hunt live fish. They are safe to keep with other peaceful fish that are not too small.

P.Altum
Its has silver body colour but with three brownish/red vertical stripes and red striping patterns into the fins. The species may show red spotting when mature and when aroused exhibits a black operculum spot. Wild p.Altum is one of most difficult to breed in captivity, it can exceed 50 cm in height in the wild. but in aquariums, they have known to have grow to just over 40 cm. They prefer a pH range between 4.5 to 5.8. They come from very transparent blackwater with almost nil conductivity. Temperature range in these waters is between 26°C and 29°C. Unlike P. scalare which prefer to spawn on plants, P. altum prefers to spawn on submerged roots and tree branches. Only advanced aquarists should keep p.altum because of detailed maintenance it requires for proper health.

Pterophyllum leopoldi
The Pterophyllum leopoldi is a river dwelling angelfish that originates from rivers in the Amazon River basin. P. leopoldi can be differentiated from P. scalare because of it's more horizontally elongated body and the black band which goes through the fish's eye and goes straight over the head and joins up on the other side. P. leopoldi is very rarely seen in the hobby.

Breeding Angel Fish
P. scalare are easy to breed in the aquarium, But because of decades of inbreeding, Angelfish have almost completely lost their rearing instincts. This results in the parents eating their young. It is very difficult to identify the gender of any Angelfish until they almost ready to breed. Angelfish pairs form long-term relationships where each individual will protect the other from threats and potential suitors. Upon the death or removal of one of the mated pair, some breeders have experienced a total refusal of the other mate to pair up with any other angelfish; others have had more success with subsequent mates. Both parents care for the young. A pair of angels are capable of spawning every seven to ten days when eggs from a previous spawn have been removed. Spawning frequency will decrease and eventually cease after they are three years old. When the pair is ready to spawn, the pair will choose a spot upon which to lay the eggs and clean the surface of any dirt or algae. The spawning area will be a broad-leaf plant or a flat surface like a piece of slate placed vertically in the aquarium. The female will deposit a line of eggs on the spawning substrate, followed by the male who will fertilize the eggs. This process will repeat itself until there are a total of 100 to up to 1200+ eggs. The pair will take turns faning water over the eggs. Within days, the eggs will hatch and the fry will remain attached to the spawning substrate. After one week, The fry will become free swimming after they consume their yolk sacs. The fry can now be fed baby brine shrimp.

Caridina japonica
(Amano Shrimp)

Scientific Name	Caridina japonica
Common Name	Amano Shrimp
Origin	Japan
Temp	20-24c
pH	6.5-7
Compatability	Community
Care Level	Easy

Caridina Japonica also known as Amano Shrimps or algae shrimps are freshwater shrimp said to have been introduced to aquarium keeping by the famous Japanese aquascaper Takashi Amano.

These shrimp are found in the Yamato river area of Japan living amongst the algae which grow along the banks, particularly in the delta areas.
Captive breeding of this species has been done but is difficult as in the wild the adults lay eggs which are washed in to more saline waters where the young hatch before beginning the journey upstream to restart the process, this means that to succeed in breeding, relative salinity must be achieved at each stage as well as correct hardness, temperature and PH.

The fish make an excellent addition to any aquaria that meet their parameters and does not contain any fish large enough to eat them. They really are fascinating to watch as they travel around the aquarium floor, constantly sorting debris and eating algae using their 4 feeding limbs, shovelling food into their mouths.
If you do decide to add these to you aquarium beware that those on sale on eBay are usually very young and thus small when purchased so easily eaten by even relatively small fish. Check with the seller when purchasing and if you do go ahead and buy young specimens, set up a breeding net in which to feed and separate the new additions to the tank, do not try and use a floating breeding trap as they can be small enough to pass through the slats. They can also spend time out of the water so make sure that you cover the top of the container you use to house them and that you have a tight fitting hood on the tank.

The shrimp will prefer the following parameters;
Temp: 18 - 27oC ideally 24oC
Hardness: 6-10 dGh
PH: 6.1 - 7.1
Adult Size: 5CM
Feeding; Algae based sinking Feeds, supplement with fresh veg i.e. weighed down cucumber, blanched spinach etc. Flake

If kept well these little shrimp are fascinating and well worthy addition to the aquarium, try to keep in groups of 5 or more if possible and never use any copper based medicines.

Trichogaster Trichpterus
(Golden gourami)

Scientific Name	Trichogaster trichopterus
Common Name	Golden gourami
Origin	-----
Temp	25-27c
pH	6.5-7
Compatability	Community
Care Level	Easy

The beautiful color of the Gold Gourami makes this a very desirable addition to an aquarium, but it does get big and can become belligerent to small tank mates!

Care:
Keep them in a 80 cm tank minimum, the fish are extremely hardy and will tolerate virtually every environment. Temperatures in the middle to higher regions. The fish are somewhat aggressive, and shouldn't be kept with small or quiet fish. For the same reason only a single male in smaller tanks. Trichogaster trichopterus should only be bought when young. Older fish get so accustomed to their surroundings, that they will turn shy if moved to another tank.Larger fish pollute a lot, decent filtration is necessary.
Size:Up to 15 cm maximum, but most fish in nature are around 11 cm. In aquariums they rarely exceed 9-10cm.

The Gold Gourami, like the Blue Gourami, Platinum Gourami, and Opaline Gourami, is a color morph of the Three-spot Gourami and is therefore very similar. The difference in the Gold Gourami is the lack of the three spots and the gold coloration.
The Gold Gourami, like all the variants of this species, are generally considered good community fish when small but they are not as peaceful as the other gouramis. They have been known to attack smaller fish. They can also get belligerent or territorial when they get large. Because they can get quite large, about 6 inches, they will soon out grow a small aquarium and will need to be provided with more space.
This species group is certainly one of the hardiest available to the aquarist, and makes an excellent first fish for people entering the hobby. They are long lived fish with each having a remarkably individual personality. They will use their pelvic fins to feel their environment and even feel their tank mates. They also seem to be quite aware of their owners.

Otocinclus affins
(Otto)

Scientific Name	Otocinclus affins
Common Name	Otto,golden otocinclus,dwarf suckermouth
Origin	Brazil
Temp	21-26c
pH	5.5-7.5
Compatability	Community
Care Level	medium

Breeding:
Eggs are laid on the leaves of plants and hatch in about 3 days.
Provide plenty of algae, green food and tiny particulate foods, such as the liquid suspension types,
for the fry.

Comments:
Otocinclus Catfish are the ideal algae eater for small to medium sized tanks. They may, however,
be difficult to acclimatise initially, and efficient filtration is essential. They are frequently
reported to die for no apparent reason after adding to a new tank.
Like many catfish, they are generally far more active at night. This particular species of Otocinclus is not often imported.

Paracheirodon innesi
(neon tetra)

Scientific Name	Paracheirodon innesi
Common Name	Neon Tetra
Origin	-----
Temp	20-26c-68-80f
pH	5-7
Compatability	Community
Care Level	easy

Comments
The Neon Tetra is an extremely popular aquarium fish. It is sturdy and inexpensive and is often one of the first fish species purchased by beginner aquarists. A shoal of brightly decorated Neon Tetras will add colour as well as activity to the aquarium. Since the Neon Tetras stay quite small and have a peaceful temperament, they are often found in small community aquariums.
The Neon Tetra is a pelagic freshwater fish native to tropical parts of northern South America. The Neon tetra originates from westerns Brazil, south-eastern Colombia and eastern Peru and wild Neon Tetras can be found in the headwaters of the River Amazon, Tiger, Napo and Yarapa. It is present in both blackwater and clearwater stream tributaries. You can however not find Neon tetras in the whitewater rivers that run from the Andes. The Neon Tetras have bright colours and an iridescent stripe in order to be visible in dark blackwaters.
The South American blackwater and clearwater streams and rivers have very soft and somewhat acidic water. The flow through tropical regions and the water temperature stays around 20 – 26° C (), sometimes higher. The commercial bred Neon Tetras have often been adapted to conditions that are very different from those found in their native habitat.
Today, an introduced population of Neon Tetra is established in Singapore.

Neon Tetra Disease
Neon Tetras are susceptible to the Neon Tetra disease. There is still no available cure for this disease and it will often kill the fish. Neon Tetra disease is caused by a sporozoan named Pleistophora hyphessobryconis. The disease is therefore also known as “Pleistophora”.
During the initial stage of Neon Tetra disease, parasite spores enter the Neon tetra. Common symptoms include restlessness and dull colouration. As the disease proceeds, cyst will develop and the fish body can become lumpy. The Neon Tetra will often have trouble swimming and towards the final stages of the disease the spine can become curved. The weakened fish is also susceptible to secondary infections.
As mentioned above, these is still no cure for Neon Tetra disease and trying to prevent the parasite from entering your aquarium in the first place is therefore the best course of action. The parasite is typically introduced via live food or newly purchased fish. By cultivating your own live food you will gain a greater control over what you put in your aquarium. Brine shrimp is for instance very easy and hassle-free to cultivate at home. When you purchase new fish, you should ideally keep them quarantined in a separate aquarium and look out for signs of illness. In the aquarium, fish often catch the disease when they eat dead fish. Removing sick and dead fish as soon as possible is therefore important. Some aquarists report that using a diatom filter decreases the risk of Neon Tetra disease, but it is only a supplement, not a substitute for the precautions described above. A diatom filter can reduce the amount of free parasites in the water.
There is also a disease known as “false Neon Tetra disease” that is often confused with true Neon Tetra disease. This disease is not caused by a sporozoan; it is caused by bacteria. The symptoms are however very similar and unless you have access to a laboratory it will be virtually impossible for you to tell the difference between the two diseases.

Scobinancistrus aureatus
(golden plec,sunshine plec)

Scientific Name	scobinancistrus aureatus
Common Name	sunshine plec (L014)
Origin	Brazil
Temp	25-29c-77-84f
pH	58-7.2
Compatability	Community
Care Level	easy

Identification :
Striking sub-adult colouration which diminishes in adults which are still quite distinctive. Commonly known as the goldie or sunshine pleco, this ultimately larger fish is a frequent import.

Sexing:
Males grow larger than females. Males develop a more ''bristled'' appearance that, in certain light, can shine from the light being reflected off the fish. The leading edge of the leading pectoral fin ray also becomes slightly spiny in mature males.

Other information:
Clean, clear, highly oxygenated, preferably with a noticeable current although this is not vital.

Danio rerio
(Zebra danio)

Scientific Name	Danio rerio
Common Name	Zebra danio (L014)
Origin	S.E.Asia,India,Pakistan
Temp	18-26c-77-84f
pH	6-8
Compatability	Community
Care Level	easy

Diet:
In the wild, they can be micropredators, they eat small crustaceans, insects, and little worms. They do eat vegetation, and the presence of fine-leaved plants may take care of their need for roughage. High-quality flake and pelletized foods will also contain the right mix of nutrients to keep these fish thriving. Like almost all other fishes, they will be quite happy with the addition of live foods to their diet. They are often used as mosquito control in temperate ponds but they should be brought in for the fall if such is the temperature routinely falls below 64 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter.
Water Temperature:
In the aquarium, they can regularly withstand temperatures between 64 and 79 degrees Fahrenheit. This can actually qualify them as coolwater fish in that they can easily handle room temperature.
Water Chemistry:
These can survive a range of water qualities. In the wild, they live in waters with pH between 6 and 8 and dH between 5 and 19. Almost any tap water (once dechlorinated and dechloraminated) will suffice but acclimation processes should be used if your water's pH or hardness lie outside the given ranges or differ greatly from that in which they were kept at the LFS. They do best with planted tanks (filled with open swimming spaces).

Sexing:
In mature specimens, the males are much slimmer than the females. If comparing two wild-type D. rerio of opposite sexes, the background will be more golden on a male and a paler yellow on a female.
Breeding:
These are reputedly among the easiest egg-layers to breed, perhaps easier than the White Cloud Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes) and the Convict Cichlid (Archocentrus nigrofasciatus). Depending on your view, you may choose to use mated "pairs" or you may choose to condition all of them and merely pick a female and a male. Merely heating the water to a temperature in the mid to upper 70s Fahrenheit and oxygenating it somewhat will likely trigger a spawning response. (this is supposed to simulate a rainy season and the unification of their stagnant pools to the rivers of the area.) Another aspect of breeding D. rerio which has multiple schools is the adornment of the spawning tank. Some recommend a heavily-planted display tank and just allowing the young to grow up along side their parents in single-species tanks. Floating plants may be used in such a tank and then removed to a separate incubatory tank. Others recommend layering the bottom of the spawning tank with marbles so that, once-scattered, eggs will not take on the role of sustainence for the hungry parents. The fry can then grow unmolested in the rearing tank once the parents have been removed.
Description:
Among the fish to have a large impact in the hobby, D. rerio is surprisingly only 2-1/4" long at a maximum. These are torpedo-shaped, streamlined little fishes that are built for speed. They have a yellow background upon which (usually five) horizontal royal blue stripes that span the length of the fish are placed. Their fins are correspondingly striped, but more brilliantly so. Interestingly enough, many aquarists do not recognize the feature which makes them a "barb" (according to Elson and Lucanus in The Barbs Aquarium); they have two pairs of barbels which are often overlooked.

Behaviour:
These are reputedly fin-nippers but only anecdotally so. They are boisterous, so they should not be kept with slow-moving, easily-annoyed and large-finned counterparts. They swim very quickly, and manifest a fright coloration that is very dull when their environment has been changed rapidly and in an unfavorable manner. They are quick to evade a predator, net, or something else that may scare them. Anyone who's ever kept a tank of these will confirm their prowess at evasion. They should be kept in a group of their own species as this will help to make them feel more comfortable. They really are social fish, so taking away the society of conspecifics is not recommended nor is it a "humane" way to keep them. They will occupy any of the levels of the aquarium, so plan their tanks accordingly.
Ease of keeping:
Excellent beginners fish, hardy, fun and colourful, makes an excellent addition to any planted peaceful aquarium.

Trichogaster trichopterus (3 Spot Gourami)

Scientific Name	Trichogaster trichopterus
Common Name	3 Spot Gourami
Origin	Thailand, Borneo
Temp	20-27°c-68-80°f
pH	6-8
Compatability	Community
Care Level	easy

The name, Three-spot Gourami, at first seems a bit of a mystery. This fish actually only has two spots, the third spot is generally considered to be the eye!

These are a beautiful fish that get quite large, about 6 inches. The Blue Gourami, like the Gold Gourami, Platinum Gourami, and Opaline Gourami, is a color-morph of the Three-spot Gourami. The Blue Gourami and the Three-spot Gourami are identical except that the Blue Gourami has a hazy, whitish-blue coat.
The Three-spot Gourami, like all the variants of this species, are generally considered good community fish when small but they are not as peaceful as the other gouramis. They have been known to attack smaller fish. They can also get belligerent or territorial when they get large.

(3 spot photos courtesy of sheperd-690)

This species group is certainly one of the hardiest available to the aquarist, and makes an excellent first fish for people entering the hobby. They are long lived fish with each having a remarkably individual personality. They will use their pelvic fins to feel their environment and even feel their tank mates. They also seem to be quite aware of their owners.

Azaezls range of fish

Planted Tanks

2008-01-14T23:35:00.000Z

Thanks to all members of PFK for allowing
their tank pictures to be used here.

Mralgaes tank

Maximum Bob's Tank

Kozmicktramp's Tank

Stu Rances Tank

Docs Tank

Andy Gordons Tanks

Azaezls Range of Tanks

Bennystalebread Tanks
Set up

during

end

Cannon-ians marine Tank

Shane Ws work in progress Tank

Dawns Tank

Syd4444 Tank

Setting Up mralgaes Tank

2008-01-14T10:54:00.004Z

Setting up of mralgae’s 240L planted tank: mralgae’s battle with algae.

This is a large posting so I will do in a couple of postings.

This article is written by MRALGAE and in no way does it disbar or disclaim any help or information I was given by any person during the period of trying to sort the problem out.

I would like to thank the following for all their help:

Zig, ChrisM, LeftC, JamesC, Richard(AE), bugs, Lotus, Jake, Curtis, fishy_girl, Cazygar, and any one else I left out.

Tank stats:

Rio 240L(63.4g) with internal filter removed and eheim 2236 external fitted and standard intake pipe with lily pipe return just below the water level to give a gentle ripple on the surface. Tropica substrate covered in black glass gravel. Pressurised c02 system using fire extinguisher running @ 1bps being diffused by a Spiro 9500 diffuser. Lighting = 2x40waquaglow & 2x40wdaylight. Total of 160w over 240L =2.5wpg

pH.6.6, ammonia.0, nitrite.0, nitrate.5, p04.0.

Removed internal filter.

Put tank in position and used cotton to lay out the golden ratio, which can be found here:

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/library/12051-golden-ratio.html

Put in tropica substrate

Added gravel around edge working inwards to get rough level of 2-3inch depth lower where I knew décor was to go.

Added some décor & poured water into bowl to stop mass movement of gravel and any dust

Water is crystal clear after filling.

Left hand side

Right hand side

Lighting is as above and the outside lights fitted with tube holders turned upside down so they don’t rest on the centre brace of the tank

The first mistake I made was not having enough plants. Which included the following Anubias nana and batari, HC.cuba, pogostemon helferi, Echinodorus ozolot, and bleheri to name some of the 41 plants.

About a week later I added some “Hygrophila corymbosa” from the smaller 60L tank that had been growing like a rocket. BUT………I ended up with this

and the water started to turn cloudy. This seemed to be the start of my problems.

As I did each WC the cloud went away for about a day only to return within 24hrs so I left the tank to settle in for 5/6 weeks checking stats all the time for it to cycle using cycle to help it along. The stats never moved and never did see any movement in the ammonia or nitrite. So I can only assume it went through a silent cycle. Time to add some fish so my lfs gave some zebra danios to see if that help the cycle, but it never did.

This was before adding the fish and after setting up the c02.

As you can see all seems to be going well.

So after checking the stats and lfs confirmed them I started to add the rest of the fish. Rainbows and neons from the other tank. I had been using some of the water from the 60 when I did WC in the 240 so perhaps this also helped the tank to cycle.

Set up of c02 system

This was a constant battle of wits between me and GW

I was at this stage constantly doing blackouts after nearly every WC. The best I would get is about a week of clear water then cloudy, then GW. I was wrecking every ones head with this and trying almost anything that was being suggested such as increase dosing, dose extra this that and what ever else I could dose. Every time I dosed anything within 24hrs I would have GW. I could not even use TMG as this also turned to GW within 24hrs. so I stopped dosing completely, nothing at all went into the tank, not even TMG. This did seem to have some effect as like I said I could get about a week before it started to turn cloudy, but a big WC seemed to help this but not all the time as I found out one day. I did a large WC and all seemed to be fine, went to work the following morning seeing the tank crystal clear only to return home that evening to a tank full of GW. I couldn’t believe what I seen. So into yet another 5 day BO. And so this went on for weeks.

At this stage I had a fair few fish in the tank Inc the rainbows, neon’s, angels, shrimp and ottos.

I then went on 2 weeks hols and had to use an auto feeder to feed the fish, so I set it up using the same amount I use each evening in each compartment, reduced the lighting to make room for the feeder and reduced the c02.

This is what I came home to…….

After 2 weeks of cleaning and trying to remove as much as possible plus the loss of 5 ottos and neon’s I was still left with this.

I still do not know what caused this but can only assume the auto feeder went on the blink to have so much uneaten food in the tank and that this caused an ammonia spike to have caused so much damage and the loss of fish.

So into another 5 day BO which seemed to start to put the tank back on course.

By mid June the tank was getting back to some what normal but I was still having GW problems.

I did try to start dosing again but back came the GW even faster. Still asking for help and advice it was all down to dosing so I was being told. At this stage I was seriously thinking of tearing the tank down and giving planted tanks a very wide berth but I hate giving up with out a fight and this was going to be a fight to the death. It or me, and it wasn’t going to be me. So thinking back to algae problems I had with the smaller tank and over come them I decided to go out with all guns blazing. I hadn’t been dosing for a while but still having problems although not as many, so I decided to throw a spanner in to the works, I did a 50% WC, and although on and off I had put carbon into the filter, I reloaded with carbon and also added a bag of phos-zorb. While doing the WC I was in the cupboard under the tank and as I turned around I couldn’t believe how blinded by the light coming in the window was. It wasn’t direct sunlight as I checked this before putting the tank in place. So when I had finished the WC I searched for a silk screen sheet I knew I had from work. And although this may well be a boring end to a major algae battle to this day I do not dose and I have the silk screen covering the front of the tank during the day when at work.

I still have carbon in the filter and have taken out the phos-zorb and run the tank with 0 p04. I don’t check the water any more as I let the tank tell me if something is wrong and using 4dkh solution in the drop checker it tells the c02 is correct. I do a 50% WC every week and that’s it. The only small problem I have at the moment is the “ozolot” tends to get holes in the older leaves and the “bacopa australis” has slightly curled leaves both of which is probably down to lack of potassium, this never has been associated with algae so I am thinking of starting to use the new PPS-PRO dosing over the next few weeks and see what happens. If all else fails I will be happy to go back to no dosing again.

Fish:

5x angels, 3x boesemanni rainbows. 10x neon tetras. 10x ottos. 2x gold gouramies.

6x S.A.Es. 1x L14 pleco. 4x ammano shrimp. 4x zebra danios.

Plants at present:

Hygrophila polysperma, Vall:Americana, Pogostemon helferi, HC cuba,

bacopa australis, Echinodorus macrophyllus, Echinodorus bleheri,

Anubias batari:nana, bacopa caoliniana, Echinodorus ozolot, eleocharis acicularis, and I can’t think what else is in there.

Well I hope my battles with algae will give others hope and inspiration and that all is not lost when you see your first out break. IMO algae in any tank especially a “planted tank” is more natural if it is there rather than none at all so long as it doesn’t over run the tank

This is the tank pics taken about 2 weeks ago

I hope that what others see here with the problems I had with my tank will give hope and inspiration to those that think of giving up and not having a planted tank.

Carbon Removal Table

2008-01-14T09:16:00.000Z

Carbon removal
table

There is and I think always will be world wide controversy over carbon being used in a planted aquarium. There still is no “factual scientific evidence” that carbon either strips nutrients from the water and also no evidence that it leaches its waste products back into the water column. I do use carbon in my planted tanks and find nothing wrong with doing so. Plants are healthy and have good growth and also very little algae present in either of my tanks. Below is a table of what carbon is supposed to remove from the water column and as you can see by it the only source of nutrients it removes is potassium, which is good to moderate. Potassium is a nutrient that plants need but not in any great amounts. The main problem with potassium removal will probably show with leaves getting holes in them. If this does happen then simply increase potassium dosing or remove the carbon.

Carbon Removal Table

High To Very Good

Arsenic, bleach, chloramine, chlorine, chromium, colors, dyes, gold,

insecticide, odors, monochloramine, tin

Good To Moderate

Acetic acid, cobalt, detergent, hydrogen sulfide, mercury, ozone,

potassium, silver, soap, solvents, vinegar

Fair

Copper, iron (not chelated), lead nickel, titanium, vanadium

Low To None

Alkalinity, ammonia, barium, carbon dioxide, hardness, copper,

manganese, nitrates, selenium, molybdenum, zinc.

setting up a c02 injection system & DIY system

2008-01-14T08:19:00.003Z

Items needed: (pictures will be in the next post)
1. gas cylinder (fire extinguisher)
2. c02 regulator gauge (preferably with needle valve)
3. needle valve (if not with gauge)
4. solinoid
5. c02 tubing
6. check valve (anti flow valve)
7. diffuser

Gas cylinders:
Fire extinguishers are one of the best options as they have the correct fitting for the most used and available gauges on the market. Pub c02 cylinders can be used but adapter units have to be used to convert male thread to female thread for the gauge.

Gauge/regulator:
There are many different types and designs on the market with different designs and reliability, ranging from very cheap to very expensive. From just the basic gauge with pressure only to twin gauge with needle valve to fine tune the amount of c02 released from the bottle. The latter, gauge with needle valve is by far the best option to go for.
If a gauge on its own is bought then a needle valve MUST be bought separately.

Needle valve:
The needle valve allows for very fine adjustment of the c02 coming out of the cylinder.

solinoid
the solinoid turns the unit on & off via electicity. plug this into a timer so it turns on 2hrs before lights on and off 2hrs before lights out.

C02 tubing:
Standard c02 tubing is adequate to use. There is a lot of disagreement on tubing as to how much c02 can leak THROUGH the wall of the tubing.

Check valve:
A check valve imo MUST be used. When the c02 is turned off at night (or god forbid a power cut) the flow and gravity will draw water up the tubing from the tank and then run into the mechanism of the gauge and cause serious damage.

Diffuser:
An ordinary air stone can be used but not recommended for c02 use as the bubbles will be bigger from the stone than from the diffuser, which will give out tiny minute bubbles which will disperse more easily into the water, as the whole idea of c02 is to get as much into the water as possible.

Diffuser Placement:
The placement of the diffuser is important, again so as much c02 gets dissolved into the water. You will get better c02 saturation if the diffuser is placed under the flow of water being pumped back into the tank so the c02 bubbles get swirled/churned up.
Some people but not all, place the end of the tube in to the up take pipe so the c02 gets directed into the filter, were it gets churned up even more than any were else in the tank. The only problem with this is that many say that it makes the filter noisy and causes damage to the filter. I have not used this method so can’t give any real answers only to say I can see both sides of the argument.

ok now for the pictures.
pub cylinder:

not the best to be used but can be if you can get the male/female thread adaptor.

fire extinguisher thread.

all common gauges use this thread and is easy to purchase any were.

gauge with regulator and needle valve attached.

the left gauge is the pressure in the tank and the right is the flow of c02. the needle valve is the small serated knob just under were the tube enters the gauge.
the solinoid is the square brass part just above the c02 tubing, and has a cable with a plug on the other end.

diffuser.

you can see by these pics the fine mist of c02 coming out of the diffuser. the finer the bubbles the better dispersion into the water.

here is the link to regulator that i have.

http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250094277504&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:IE:11

DIY YEAST c02 SET UP

If you have a small aquarium or cant afford a full c02 injection set up then all is not lost as you can make diy yeast set up very easily and very cheaply using basic 1 or 2ltr pop bottles.

How to make the reactor:
Take a large enough pop bottle and thoroughly clean it under clear warm running water. DO NOT USE any form of detergent. Let the bottle dry out.
One you have your clean bottle
Drill a hole in the centre of the cap so the tubing will fit through.
Insert the tube so approx 1inch goes through the cap and silicone around the tube to make an air tight seal and let it dry.

WARNING:
Use only a plastic bottle that has had fizzy drinks in it. DO NOT USE GLASS.

To make up the yeast mix you will need:
800ml water
¼ to 1 teaspoon of yeast
200g sugar
1/2 to 2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (if required)

The bicarb in the mix helps stabilise the mixture but is not necessary to use.
There are a few different recopies that can be used and is a case of finding out which one suits you best.
Put the sugar in the bottle first then add the yeast and then the water make sure you use tepid water at approx 30°C/86°F if the water is to cold then the mix will not react and to hot it will kill the yeast.

Replace the cap with the tubing attached on the bottle and tighten.Run the tubing into the tank, and place the end under the filter intake as this will help to swirl the c02 bubbles around the tank and help to break them up.
A glass diffuser wont work with a diy system as the pressure is not sufficient to be forced out of the ceramic ring. An air stone will work well and will help to diffuse and make smaller bubbles.

This recipe will normally last approx 2 weeks but will need to be changed before it reduces to nothing as too many fluctuations in c02 can lead to algae problems in the tank.

Algae Guide

2008-01-14T05:35:00.001Z

Algae Alert

Hydrogen .
Oxygen .
Carbon .
Nitrogen .
Calcium .
Magnesium .
Phosphate .
Sulfur

MICROnutrients (trace).

Iron.
Manganese.
Chlorine.
Zinc.
Baron.
Nickel.
Copper.
Molybdenum